Through the eyes of a trainer (why we need horse trainers)

In this modern age the average horse person has access to a wealth of information.  From magazines to books to online videos and dvds you can learn just about anything.  This near limitless amount of information has gone a long way in helping everyday horse owners improve their skills and general horsemanship, but there are still some things that cannot be learned without the guidance of a skilled trainer.

I like to say that horse training is both an art and an science because unlike baking a cake you cannot just follow the directions and measurements on the package and have everything turn out perfect.  Training a horse requires timing and for lack of a better word feel both of which involve constantly changing variables.

When I start a horse (I hate using the word "break") I follow a basic formula, meaning that I know what I need to do at each stage to achieve the next.  I know where my horse needs to be with one skill/behavior in order to successfully move on to another.  This is the type of information found in every magazine article, book, and dvd.  These media sources tell you the steps you need achieve your results but they only share the big picture.  

Beyond the basic formula my training takes on art like form where I am constantly using feel and personal intuition in addition to timing to achieve the results I desire.  I know that every single horse I ride requires a slightly different approach.  With feel and intuition I am able to determine how much each horse needs to give and do on any given day to be successful.  Where Horse A may be mentally able to learn how to yield his hindquarter and his forequarter in one day, Horse B may only be ready to yield his hindquarter a single step.  This doesn't mean that Horse B will never achieve the level of Horse A it just means that a single step was all that Horse B could handle that day.  Tomorrow Horse B having been given time to think may surpass Horse A on the next lesson.  I train by reading how my horse feels and by learning how he thinks.  Using my sense of timing I release and reward according to the individual and how he is performing each maneuver on any given day.

The problem with intuition, feel, and timing is that their only constant is that they are constantly changing.  You may start at one level of timing at the beginning of the ride and finish in a completely different place.  You have to know when you need to go back to zero and when you are ready to zoom up to sixty and this can fluctuate back and forth in a matter of minutes and at times even seconds.

Only through experience, trail and error, and guidance by someone skilled in the art of training are you able to develop a true sense of feel.  While it is theoretically possible to achieve these skills without outside help working with someone is the fastest and most painless way to achieve your training goals.  Remember that every great professional rider has or has had a great mentor.  Greatness is rarely achieved alone.       

Food for thought- Sometimes I just can't shut up

Today I happened upon the Mugwump Chronicles and her post "Sometimes I just can't shut up" and I really enjoyed what she had say.

http://mugwumpchronicles.blogspot.com/2012/11/sometimes-i-just-cant-shut-up.html

Over the past 6 years training I have to admit that I have personally come to many of the same conclusions.

As long as a person is; trying, doing the best they know how by their horse, and is willing to learn they are always welcome here and in my real life. 

When I started training I made the commitment to teach and treat others as I want to be treated and spoken to and this philosophy has given me the chance to make a real difference in the lives of numerous horses and their owners.  I train/teach because I enjoy helping people grow, but I also realize that everyone grows at their own pace.

I realize that because someone does not do it exactly as I do it that it does not always make them wrong.  Sure, their horse life might be better if they did a few things more like me, but maybe my horse life would be better if I did things more like them. I might mention a great article on hoof care, saddle fit, or feeding; and if things are getting out of hand I will nicely confront someone.  But at the end of the day if a horse is not being staved, beaten, or abused and is instead truly loved we have enough in common to work together and be friends.        

True horsemanship is not about calling names or pointing fingers; it's about sharing, caring, and being nice to one another.

Sometimes we forget that we all had to start somewhere.

Sometimes we forget that we are ALL in it for the love of horses.



 

 

Cold weather gear under $40

As an avid trail rider I have spent more than a few days out in absolutely miserable winter weather.  And over the years I have learned that having the right gear can make a world of difference at the end of a 8 hour misting and sleeting day.

Products I love:

Cuddl Duds:

I have worn them for years.  These legging play a huge part in my being able to enjoy hours outside on the colder days.  You can find them at most large clothing stores such as Jcpenney's and various online retailers.

$16-$35

Women's Fleece Earband by Duluth Trading Co:

Now I haven't personally used this yet but can't you just see it fitting under helmets and western hats.  The product reviews are all glowing and with the genius ponytail slot this product looks like it was made for horse people.  

$12.50- $14.50

http://women.duluthtrading.com/store/womens/womens-accessories/hats-and-caps-for-women/35021.aspx

Men's Shoreman's Ball Cap Ear Warmer:

Made with the same material as the Women's Fleece Earband, this version allows you to wear a ball cap with comfort and ease.  

$15

http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/mens/mens-accessories/11081.aspx

Women's Duluth Winterproof Gloves:

Now I again have yet to own these gloves but after last year's sleeting episode while out on the trail they are on my must have list before I go on another week long ride. The reviews are once again stellar, and they look like they would be well suited for riding and general barn work.  If anyone is wondering what I would like for Christmas, size large please.

$29.50

http://women.duluthtrading.com/store/womens/womens-accessories/womens-work-gloves/30001.aspx#pr-header-30001

Cabela's Three-Season Jacket:

I love this jacket! I have two that are both a few years old and I would love another in a different color.  It is windproof, fairly waterproof, and it perfect weight for most cold weather in Texas.  In addition to the fabulous colors it is also cut to flatter your figure.  Best of all if you watch the sales you can get one for $20.  Cheap enough that you can have one for barn work and feeding and one for anything else. It is a well made jacket that will last for years to come.   

$20

http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=1385304&categoryId=0&parentCategoryId=0&subCategoryId=0&indexId=0&itemGUID=b73f9a6fac10845378e61427e400caea&WTz_l=SBC%3BMMcat104797080%3Bcat104480280%3Bcat104154480&destination=/checkout/basket.jsp

Women's Fleece Shoreline Gaiter:

Yet another thing I would love to have.  I love scarves but when riding and working they always seem to get in the way.  This thing provides the protection I need without slipping out of place.  Needless to say this gaiter is now on my need before a long winter trail ride list.

$19.50   

http://women.duluthtrading.com/store/womens/womens-accessories/hats-and-caps-for-women/30032.aspx

Riding tips, tricks, and words of wisdom

Many of you may have hear these from myself or other people, but here is a list of tips and tricks off the top of my head.

Tips for under saddle:

1.  If you are having a hard time picking up a lead try asking in a smaller circle.  The smaller the circle (small not tiny) the easier it is on your horse to lope/canter in the correct lead.

2.  If you are having trouble picking up a counter-canter work in a bigger circle and slowly scale down the size as your horse gets comfortable.

3.  Large wide circles encourage your horse to speed up (think reining) while smaller circles encourage your horse to slow down.  This works at both a trot and lope.  

4.  The more you move the faster your horse will move, think posting verses sitting a trot.

5.  Your horse's mind is where ever his nose is.  If he is hanging his nose to the outside of your circle he is not focused with or on you.

6.  If you can see your horse's inside eye/eyelashes or the buckle of your bridle your horse's shoulders are upright or close to it when working in a circle.

7.  When trying to lift your horse's shoulders you must first lift your hand before moving it over.  If you just move your hand over you will only tilt your horses head instead of lifting the shoulder.

8.  When your horse warping your circles to the outside.  Brace with your outside leg (leg facing to the outside of the circle) and direct with your inside rein.

9.  When your horse is cutting off your circles to the inside brace with your inside leg (leg facing to the inside of the circle you are riding) and lift your inside rein up and over to lift the shoulder and widen your circle.

10.  It is much easier long term to correct a bad behavior the moment it happens (yes this applies to a horse who normally doesn't do that) than to allow it to get out of hand.  Even the most well trained horse will try and push their boundaries at some time or the other.

11.  If they do it once they will do it again.  This applies to warping circles, dropping shoulders, walking off while mounting, and everything in between.  It is your job as the rider to recognize patterns in your horses behavior and work to fix them.

12.  All of a sudden does not exist in the horse world.  Your horse told you he was upset (high head, braced neck, distracted, tense) and you did not listen.  99% of all spooks can be avoided by paying attention to your horse.

13.  When in doubt move his feet.  It very hard to spook, buck, and or rear when all four feet are already moving.

14.  It is not the pressure that teaches but the release of pressure.

15.  When the going gets tough break everything down into tiny little steps and reward any progress in the right direction.

16.  If you want your horse to always do something you must always be willing to make them do it.

17.  Always make the right behaviors easy and the wrong behaviors hard.

18.  When you teach your horse to move forward without constant kicking, kissing, and general encouragement you are then able to use your legs to cue other maneuvers, you will also be a lot less tired after riding.

19.  If you want your horse to learn to do something for themselves (moving forward, traveling with up right shoulders, etc) you must be willing to let go.  You must be willing to let them try and mess up over and over again.

20.  Riding a horse is a lot like driving a car.  You are very likely to crash and burn when you take your hands off the wheel and stop paying attention.  

If your horse's great grandfather could trailer in this....

Thought of the day.

If your horse's great grandfather could ride in this.

(dated 1926)

Your horse has no reason for not riding in this.

The Definition of Quit- Cute Cowboy and Cow Horse Video Edition

It is no big secret that I am a big fan of the working remuda horses and general lifestyle.  When I dream of heaven I picture big beautiful countryside and spending the rest of my days with my equine best friends and family chasing cattle and experiencing nature.  So I naturally know of and follow many of the big ranches and the 6666's in Guthrie, Texas has always been one of my favorites. When I saw that they had horses offered in the AQHA World Show Sale I obviously had to take a peek.  Needless to say I was not disappointed.  

Now while the horse and cowboy are cute they are doing much more than looking pretty. 

When the video starts I see a well balanced rider a top a free moving horse traveling on a straight line (plus or minus a cactus or two) on a loose rein.   The horse is responsibly observing his surroundings and traveling at a steady pace.  The horse and rider are working as a team and neither party is getting in the other's way. 

The next scene is my least favorite but we see some arena work and while not perfect the horse is moving steadily (just a little stiff) but still on a decently loose rein.  If I were in charge I would change his bit.  

Then we get to the cattle pushing scene where both horse and rider are again on a loose rein, working together, and focused on their targets.  The horse obviously knows his job and the cowboy is willing to allow him to do it. The cowboy has quit babying the horse and the horse has willingly become quite self sufficient at his task.  

Next we find the roping scene.  We see a horse ready to do his job but willing to wait and listen to his rider.  We see the chute open and the horse bursts out in a quick but controlled fashion.  He then upon his cowboy catching up and roping the steer positions himself to keep tension on the rope.  

And the best part of the whole movie happens 40 to 48 seconds in.  The cowboy drops his roping rope and gives the horse his head.  The horse immediately drops his head and walks off as if nothing ever happened.  

Both horse and rider quit.

Meaning the rider stopping babying, kicking, and cueing.  He put his hand down and rewarded his good horse by not bothering him.  He gave his horse the chance to work without inference and was rewarded with a horse that did so willing.     

They each trust the other to do his part and as a result each is better able to focus on what they need to do to get the job done.   

Which is why this video is a pretty good definition of what it means to quit and what you can achieve when you do.  

      

Bits and Bitting Part 5: Leverage/Curb Bits

Sorry for the delay in the series, life at times tends to get in the way.

Over the years I've found that leverage bits on average have a bad/harsher wrap when it comes to public opinion.  Many people consider it a point of pride to ride in snaffle over a curb.  But what most people do not realize is that comparing a snaffle to a curb is like comparing chicken to pigeons.

To refresh your memory on snaffle bits and mouth pieces please check out- http://knptraining.blogspot.com/2012/07/bits-and-bitting-part-4-truth-about.html

According to "A Whole Bit Better" by Dale, Ron, and Bob Myler a curb bit consists of shanks "of two or three rings, one at the top of the bit for the headstall/bridle and one or two at the bottom for the reins, attached to a length of metal in between where the mouth piece is attached.  A curb strap or chain is attached to both shanks."

"Shanks can be straight or curved, long or short, or any variation thereof.  The length and shape of the shank determines how much pressure will be communicated to the horse. Shanks are categorized as quick, offering more direct pressure to the horse with light pressure on the reins, and slow, offering a more subtle signal to the horse with pressure on the reins."

Where a snaffle bit exerts pressure on the bars, lips and tongue, a curb bit also applies pressure to the poll, chin helping the horse to break at the poll. Depending on the mouth piece a curb may also put pressure on the tongue and bars.

The shank on a curb bit amplifies the pressure exerted by the rider.  So if a standard curb bit has a 1 1/2" cheek and a 4 1/2" lower shank there is a 1:4 ratio of cheek to full shank.  So when 1 pound of pressure is applied to the reins 4 pounds of pressure will be felt in the mouth.  The slope of the shank also affects the amount of pressure applied.  

(source: Horse-Pros.com)

The mouth pieces of both snaffles and curbs can be the same and can work off the bars, tongue, and soft pallet.

So if both snaffles and curbs can use the same mouth pieces why have a curb bit in the first place? 

Where a snaffle bit is a direct rein meaning if you want to turn left you pull on the left rein and is generally used with two hands a curb bit is a indirect rein bit that allows the rider to use.  With more leverage a rider is also able to use lighter cues. 

A stronger bit is never a substitute for training, and no one bit is right for every horse.  A curb should be used on horses who already comfortable in the bridle and also work off seat and leg pressure .  A curb bit is best suited for a finished or nearly finished horse which is best defined below.     

"The ultimate goal with riding and training horses is to have a finished or broke horse.  The finished horse will do what you ask, willingly and relaxed.  He'll go wherever you direct him.  He will always try.  He has enough confidence in the rider to trust that he won't be put unto a situation that will hurt him.  To be considered finished, a horse needs to be relaxed in the bridle.  In the bridle means that the horse is broke at the poll with his head set on the vertical.  He's supple and giving to the hands and his head stays in position with little or no contact.  When a horse is broke at the poll you can feel it.  He's got his shoulders up, he's round through his back, engaged through the hind end and balanced underneath you.  It's a wonderful feeling for the rider.  You can gather him up to collect, release and he stays in position.  No matter the level of training, a horse should always be relaxed in the bridle. Always."- A Whole Bit Better by Dale, Ron, and Bob Myler